Day 9 Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

1 km to the stable of the mulas del Mercedes.

We are off today for the city of Leon. An ancient cart from la Familia Mercedes with 500 horses takes us to the city! The way is mostly suburban with not much in the way of scenery. We enter the city, crossing Rio Bernesga guarded by Lions. In just a few minutes in a light rain, we reach the Plaza San Marcelo and the Cathedral of Leon.

The city of Leon grew from a Roman camp, the most powerful military base in the Iberian Peninsula. The Cathedral was started in around 1205 AD and only took only 50 years to complete and there were only 5000 people living in Leon at the time. It used the old Roman baths as the foundation. Thanks to switching from the old Romanesque building style to the Gothic, 1765 square meters of stained glass adorn its walls (737 windows). It is situated on a West to East line to take advantage of the day's sunlight to illuminate the interior. The city is cosmopolitan with many theatres, museums, literary venues and nightlife. We will only scratch the surface along the Way.

Our hotel, La Posada Regia, just a block from the Plaza, offered many opportunities for food and drink. After checking in, stowing our packs and ditching our boots for our two day stay, we were off to the noon Mass, a tour of the Cathedral and some lunch. After some strolling, we found an alley strictly for shopping. With rain threatening again, we decided to partake in the traditional European afternoon custom; a siesta, until the shops open for the evening.

We continue to see familiar faces of pilgrims we've met along the way. Many stay in hotels like us, but as many in Albergues. Tina, the Koreans, and another lady all are sick and are lacking sleep. All have been staying in hostels and albergues. Early on while booking rooms ahead, we wondered if we were missing the true pligrim experience. Now we think not. Our room here in Leon is 2 blocks off the main street, quiet and comfy.

Last night at dinner, we observed a couple at the next table, the lady looked very weary. She could hardly hold up her head and only ate white rice. Today we see her again in Leon looking better and telling us she had been sick with stomach distress for 4 days. She is alone, without her husband. He apparently abandoned her over a route dispute! She had no idea where he was or the name of their hotel. We could only suggest she go to the tourist office in the Cathedral Square and hope he would show up. We never saw her again that day. Maybe later on the Way we will encounter her again and find out the outcome.

In Leon and the region, it is customary when ordering a drink, a small tapa is given. Tonight, 2 glasses of wine each yielded enough food for a meal. Afterwards, we enjoyed a yogurt and a cup of tea before retiring.

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Buen Camino

 

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Day 8 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas

We left at about 7:30 this morning. Saying goodbye to our lovely hostess at El Peregrino, see photo below.

We walked about 12 miles today. Our walk today was almost all on a path with a tree planted every 20 feet or so. We heard that this was a project of the European Union to build this nice path to support the Camino de Santiago. The trees are healthy and provide shade for the walkers. There were several picnic areas along the way also. We lucked out and saw our friend from Belgium, Tina, as she rode by on her bicycle headed for Leon. Said goodbye again and got a nice photo to remember her. Who knows, maybe we will see her again before we arrive in Santiago.

We passed thru one village today, Reliegos, and stopped for lunch and cold drinks at one of the Albergues before our final trek into Mansilla de las Mulas.

We enter the village thru an ancient arch into the old walled medieval city. Old historic sketches show knights jousting in the plazas. It is now 4 o'clock by the church belltower so we are waling it to see if it is open. Our hotel tonight is Albergueria del Camino, a very old hotel within the medieval city. It is quite lovely, full of antiques and a nice courtyard with grapevines full of new grapes. We have a nice view of one of the old churches from the patio.

Buen Camino

 

 

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Posting without photos

Well, had to post blog without pics today! Tried everything, nothing would post until we deleted them.

Tomorrow, maybe we will have better luck with a better connection.

Buen Camino.

 

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Days 5, 6, and 7

Day 5 - May 24 Villa la Cazar de Sirga to Calzadilla de la Cueza

14 mile day

We got a late start waiting for the breakfast, that was a disappointing choice of pastries then back on the path. I am not sure how people do this on next to nothing in the morning. We have begun to supplement with a good old breakfast Americano.

We saw a sign on the path that read 463K to Santiago. Every step gets us closer.

Going thru Carrion de los Condes, we met up again with Joe and Sheila from Canada and said goodbye. They decided to hop ahead to Leon by train. Hmmm, it did cross my mind too. At the Inglesia de Santa Maria del Camino, we stopped to light a candle for Ann-Marie's Father and John's Mother.

 

You can see the track of the pilgrim in above photo. Very few cars only walkers or bikes have made the tracks.

Still walking through farmlands. Tough day for John. Taxis were on his mind. The heat and the wind and not much to eat in the morning slowed him down a bit. Our packs have the same stuff, but seem heavier each day. We still arrived at our next destination at a reasonable hour. Enjoyed a nice dinner with a Frenchman named Jean Pierre, and Ann Marie got some good practice with her French speaking. His 70th birthday was the following day so we helped him to celebrate early. Didn't get to sleep until very late as the bar in the hotel was crowded with futbol (soccer) fans as two Madrid teams were competing in a championship game and their screams radiated throughout the hotel until after midnight

Our hotel for the night - Camino Rea

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Day 6 - May 25 Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun

13 mile day

Had a great breakfast buffett then headed out.

Sights along the way today

More cereal fields. Several picnic areas. Cold drinks in Ledigos and John became Dr John to a young girl suffering from blisters, more walking.

 

 

 

Arrived at our hotel in Sahagun around 3. Great day

After the daily arrival ritual, we migrated to the common area with the other pilgrims. We met Tina from Belgium. She was posting her blog and told us she had been riding her bicycle for 4 weeks from Belgium thru France on her way to Santiago along the Camino Frances. She works for Johnson & Johnson as a medical chemist. Her bike was rented in Belgium and furnished with paniers, bags tools and uses a belt drive instead of a chain. Nice. It eliminates a lot of maintenance. We had dinner with her and great conversation. She was staying in the dormitories of the Albergue.

Annie sent me out on a mission tonight to ask the host to call ahead for some reservations. With my marvelous pigeon Spanglish, I wore out my welcome quickly. After 5-6 calls and two successes, he said enough for tonight. He actually wanted to watch TV!

We got to sleep after 10 and it was still light outside.

Our hotel for the night - Domus Viatoris

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Day 7- May 26 Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero

12 mile day

Before leaving Sahagun, we had breakfast with our new found friend Tina and wished her Buen Camino as she continued her bike ride to Santiago.

Another perfect weather day. We started the day with a trip to el banco (bank) and a little unsettling route finding thru Sahagun. But, the WAY presented itself and we were off again. No wind today and temperature perfect for walking. After leaving town we trekked along the path serenaded by the cuckoo bird and frogs in the adjacent wetlands. With fruit and nuts from the mercado (market) last night, we snacked along the way at picnic areas and also had a coffee in Bercianos del Real Camino, a village on our path today.

Passed quite a few vineyards today. Vines looking quite healthy, but no grapes yet.

We met a pilgrim from New Mexico who is walking while her husband drives their rental car to the next destination. We also met a young woman from The Hague, Holland as we walked and her singing and conversation helped us along and made our aches less noticeable. We arrived in El Burgo Ranero around 2pm. After the daily ritual of showers, washing and stretching, the bar and large cervesa beckoned. We are now enjoying the sun and comfort of the rooftop patio.

 

 

Sadly we've noticed that there are many, many churches in the villages, but not many are open for the pilgrims. We have met young and old on this pilgrimage and all struggle to get to the end of the day. We feel very fortunate to be doing as well as we are each day.

 

 

Our hotel for the night - El Peregrino. Our hostess is a middle aged woman full of energy. She must run up and down the 3 floors every 5 minutes!

Buen Camino

 

 

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Test post

Having issues. Testing.

 

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Day 4 Formista to Villarcazar de Sigra

No rain, but plenty of wind. The wind was gusty at times, tolerable, and the temperature was perfect. Best day so far.

Our Accomcdation for tonight: Hostal Infanta Dona Leonor. It is a one star hotel, but is great; private room with private bath with a view of the Templar Church. All have been one star so far and we recommend them to future pilgrims.

 

Today we pass many symbols of the Camino. We shall share them with you.

 

Buen Camino

 

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