Day 9 Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

1 km to the stable of the mulas del Mercedes.

We are off today for the city of Leon. An ancient cart from la Familia Mercedes with 500 horses takes us to the city! The way is mostly suburban with not much in the way of scenery. We enter the city, crossing Rio Bernesga guarded by Lions. In just a few minutes in a light rain, we reach the Plaza San Marcelo and the Cathedral of Leon.

The city of Leon grew from a Roman camp, the most powerful military base in the Iberian Peninsula. The Cathedral was started in around 1205 AD and only took only 50 years to complete and there were only 5000 people living in Leon at the time. It used the old Roman baths as the foundation. Thanks to switching from the old Romanesque building style to the Gothic, 1765 square meters of stained glass adorn its walls (737 windows). It is situated on a West to East line to take advantage of the day's sunlight to illuminate the interior. The city is cosmopolitan with many theatres, museums, literary venues and nightlife. We will only scratch the surface along the Way.

Our hotel, La Posada Regia, just a block from the Plaza, offered many opportunities for food and drink. After checking in, stowing our packs and ditching our boots for our two day stay, we were off to the noon Mass, a tour of the Cathedral and some lunch. After some strolling, we found an alley strictly for shopping. With rain threatening again, we decided to partake in the traditional European afternoon custom; a siesta, until the shops open for the evening.

We continue to see familiar faces of pilgrims we've met along the way. Many stay in hotels like us, but as many in Albergues. Tina, the Koreans, and another lady all are sick and are lacking sleep. All have been staying in hostels and albergues. Early on while booking rooms ahead, we wondered if we were missing the true pligrim experience. Now we think not. Our room here in Leon is 2 blocks off the main street, quiet and comfy.

Last night at dinner, we observed a couple at the next table, the lady looked very weary. She could hardly hold up her head and only ate white rice. Today we see her again in Leon looking better and telling us she had been sick with stomach distress for 4 days. She is alone, without her husband. He apparently abandoned her over a route dispute! She had no idea where he was or the name of their hotel. We could only suggest she go to the tourist office in the Cathedral Square and hope he would show up. We never saw her again that day. Maybe later on the Way we will encounter her again and find out the outcome.

In Leon and the region, it is customary when ordering a drink, a small tapa is given. Tonight, 2 glasses of wine each yielded enough food for a meal. Afterwards, we enjoyed a yogurt and a cup of tea before retiring.

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Buen Camino

 

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