Day 23 June 11 O Pedrouzo to Santiago

 

Our hotel tonight is Montes Pension in the old city.

14 miles today

Beautiful at the start thru nice shaded forest then some farming villages, finishing on a pavement slog thru the city. Strangely today, we saw no churches in the villages until almost to Santiago. We met our Canadian friends, Mark and Iris, having breakfast in one of the cafes/bars so we hung out with them a bit and walked into Santiago with them. While sitting at the bar, Iris just happened to mention that she used to be an Air Traffic Controller in Edmonton, Alberta back in the early 80's. John and I looked at each other and laughed then I told her that I had been one for 25 years. What a coincidence as I had not told a soul what my career had been until then.

As we crossed to the Port de Camino, we entered the old city to the Cathedral Plaza. Hot and tired, the temperature was in the 90s, we went straight to the hotel to stash the packs before going to the Credencial Office which just happened to be right outside the back door of our hotel.

 

We arrived too late for the noon pilgrim mass at the cathedral so we got our Camino certificates, did some exploring of the old city and went to the 7:30 mass at the cathedral. It's an incredible church as well as the many others in Santiago.

While standing in line at the Credential office, our old friend Teoman from Turkey saw us and came over to say hello. He was leaving the next day to walk to Finisterre.

Throughout the day, we met up with Iris and Mark, Juan from Spain, Joe and Sheila from Vancouver, Dava and Jorge from New Mexico, Jean Paul and Jacqueline and Sylvianne from France, as well as others we had met on the Camino. It was a great day.

There were musicians playing all over the city. It was quite fun.

For awhile, we sat on the cathedral steps, along with many others, and watched other pilgrims arrive. Many, many arrived limping, some with obvious blisters, swollen feet and lots of bandaids. We, with our few ailments, considered ourselves lucky. I guess good preparation pays off.

Off and on we saw a group of American women walking. Most times the youngest one carried the packs of two others. One day, one was struggling so badly we wondered if she should go the hospital! We did not see them until Santiago; they all made it. It was at the train station that we actually met them and heard their stories.

We did meet some members of a group being pampered and chaffeured along the last 100km of the Camino. It did not seem fair to us at first, but everyone does the Camino their own way.

It's been an amazing journey. Before leaving Denver, we felt unprepared as we were so busy with the sale and moving of our mountain cabin. Yet we were able to do this, 489 Kilometers (actually quite a bit more with route changes and after walking around villages after walking all day). The people we met, the strength we had and the memories will be with us always. We now think we are ready to return to do the first part of the Camino Frances to Burgos that we were not able to do, then take a train to Santiago and complete the journey to Finisterre at the ocean. Maybe next year?

Now we know that less is more. Just a small pack of 16-20 pounds will carry more than enough. There were only a few items we packed that were not used as we traveled the Camino Our Way. We have learned much and on our next Camino will be smarter and better prepared.

End of the Line" Tom Petty.

Not really. We are now just between Caminos!

Buen Camino

 

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Day 22 June 10. Casteneda to O Pedrouzo

Accomodation tonight Pension Maribel

19.5 miles today

Beautiful rural walk today with fantastic weather. The green scenery is so breathtaking. Pictures just don't do it justice. Many roosters cocked hello as we entered every village. Luckily we didn't have to follow the muddy track below. That road was quite muddy.

We arrived in O Pedrouzo with very tired feet. It was a long day and Ann-Marie was getting some nerve pain in her toes, that continued during the night. Having a blanket on the toes was painful. We had a very nice place to stay in O Pedrouzo and sore feet and all we explored the village and had a nice dinner. We found this nice church on our walk, Santa Eulalie de Arca. The altar was amazing with the shell behind it.

 

Met Jean Paul from Brittany area of France. Annie got another French language fix. He is a salt miner on the low tide salt flats in Guerande, France. He said it's the best sea salt in the world. He has walked from his home in Brittany. He is a runner and wishes he could run to Santiago vs walk! We enjoyed him very much. Kept seeing him everywhere until Santiago. He said "Je suis partout" which means "I am everywhere". He had been walking for 61 days and told us of his wife who has ovarian cancer and getting chemo treatments. They are hoping that she will be well enough to walk a Spanish camino next year. She has been fighting cancer now for 4 years. He told some other pilgrims from France that Ann-Marie was the americaine who speaks french.

...Imagine all the people living life in peace...

...you may say I'm a dreamer...

...but I am not the only one.

...and the world will live as one!

Thank you, John Lennon

Someone had written all the words to John Lennon's song "Imagine" on trashcans along the way. Even a trashcan can bring wisdom and hope!

Getting closer to Santiago! Only one more day of walking. The marker says 20 km but it's actually a bit more with route changes throughout the years.

Hi Jurgen!

 

Buen Camino

 

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Day 21 9 June Palas del Rei to Casteneda

16 miles today

Pazo de Sedor tonight

Mostly up all day.

Overcast and intermittent rain all day

 

Friends along the path.

In Melide, at the city market to buy our lunch. Joe and Shiela, Canadians, did the same and we entertained locals while eating in the park. Also, we stopped in the St. Mary's Romanesque church. Ann-Marie lit a candle for her father, Arthur.

Later, stopped at a small church in Boente. The priest was there and said a short blessing for us pilgrims and told about the church and all of the statuary.

We expected warm dry day, but got neither.The elevation map depicted an easy day, but it was harder than expected.

 

Tired boots!

Ann-Marie joined the blister club today! Just 2 days before Santiago. Go figure.

We arrived to find the casa rural to be a 300 year old restored stone farm house and dining room formerly a stable. Lovely.

The Inn Keeper, Xuan!

Day 4, May 26

Day 21, June 9, 8am. Not too shabby!

After today, 2 days to Santiago de Compostella.

Buen Camino

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Day 20 June 8 Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Hotel -Ponterroxan

Walked 15 miles

Enjoyed coffee and tortilla bocadilla in Gonzar.

Ventas de Naron, for lunch.

A new church along the way.

We walked up hill half the day with not too many nice villages or scenery. The farm smell was relentless but we walked on and on.

Many abdominally distressed cows in the path.

Spent all afternoon and dinner with the canadians - Joe, Sheila, Mark and Iris. Two hours just flew by!

Not sure our clothes will dry as it is very wet and humid.

Buen Camino

 

 

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Day 19 June 7 Vilei to Portomarin

Hotel tonight Pension Posada del Camino

Miles walked 16.4 includes around village after arrival.

We left Casa Barbadelo in Vilei at about 7:30 after breakfast.

 

Fields of green again today. So fantastic!

Met Teoman again today after 2 days. Told him the story of Jack Daniels! He liked it. He walked with us all the way to Portomarin.

With Teoman and a group of Korean students, we passed the 100 kilometers to Santiago marker. We passed the original marker first then the newer one which is now slightly beyond due to roads or path changes. This picture is standing at the new marker.

 

 

Met Joe and Sheila after at least a week. We thought they were way ahead of us because they had taken a bus to Leon a couple days before we got there.

Met Dava and Jorge again after 2 days. Had a Sangria with them in the Main plaza of Portomarin.

Met Jacqueline and Sylvianne after 2 days. Finally got to take a photo of them. They are from Vannes, France.

Beautiful hilly (and somewhat smelly) walk with farms, cows, sheep, rain, wind and sun off and on all day. Everything is so green. We hear birds all day long. It is so peaceful, even with all the people walking.

 

San Juan, Templar church in plaza mayor was moved to its current placement in 1963, when the reservoir was built. The church was right in the middle of the valley to be flooded. You can still see the numbers on the reconstructed stones from when they dissembled it stone by stone. Muy incredible! We were able to visit the inside too.

Santiago (St James) pointing us to the Way.

Not very tired today. Another very long day tomorrow; 16 miles. We've been arriving every day about 2 or so which gives us time to rest and explore the villages. It's quite nice.

We bought all of our food for tomorrow to save some euro and to speed up the days walk. Stopping along the way takes so much time. All of the pilgrims jam into every bar and restaurant so getting waited on is difficult at times, although the stops are great on the feet.

Afternoon rain expected tomorrow.

Buen Camino

 

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