Day 3 - Castrojeriz to Formista

 

Today is the last section of the ancient Mystical way. It was laid by Romans 2000 years ago by pilgrims like us. How many have walked this path? Quien sabe (who knows)?

 

Today the Knights and Monks of old offer us a chance to explore our purpose. They offer us an opportunity to find our inner strength and inner peace. As a symbol of these offerings they reveal to us the caracol or the snail, which has the epitome of patience and determination; just watch one for a time. To borrow the words of the ancient mystics, life without inner direction is fruitless and leads to dispair! So, off we go into the rain and up the first long hill to the summit of the Meseta.

By the way, we all know why the chicken crosses the road, but why does our friend el caracol? Also, I ask the universal intelligence, you readers, what do they eat?

During the rainy mornings, your world becomes the path. Looking down to avoid Señor Barro (the Mud) we observe all that is living which is often missed in the modern world. Snails, millipedes, catapillers, and anuts become our cosmos. And La Musica del Camino becomes the wind and the click of trekking poles.

At Ermita de San Nicolas, a hostal with no elec, no phone or other modcons, they offered coffee and basic snacks by donation. But as soon as served, they closed and put us back out in the rain! Not very charitable, but the volunteers had to go to work their day jobs. It was still good and we could see what a spartan no frills hostel (albergue) with bunk beds offered.

Just a note on the food. Breakfasts are typical European, not much. We eat everything they put out which is mostly breads and pastries. Lunches consist mostly of the Bocatillia (sub sandwich). At night is is a totally different story. We order the peregrino (pilgrim) menu and are presented with 3-4 courses and included is a full bottle of local rioja. All is consumed!

A pair of Korean girls were also enamored by the Snails. Both had collections on their ponchos calling them their Camino family!

On the final leg, 3 miles, two Irish Tartans are on display. Two young men are wearing kilts and seemed to be strolling along quite freely! They moved so freely that they left us behind to enjoy he fields of cereals blowing in the wind. The path followed an irrigation canal gorged with water. Several farmers were drawing agua (water) from it to flood their fields. At the end of the canal we entered Formista, a farming, what else, village of 600. Crossing a narrow foot bridge, we view the terminus of a different waterway that stepped down to the lower fields. Quite beautiful.

After a blissful bath, we toured the town and visited 2 local churchs; the Romanesque Church of San Martin, consecrated in 1066 and the Church of San Pedro, a 15th century Gothic Church. Both beautiful in there simplicity.

The wind and the rain greeted us again today, but we are loving the walk. We might be a bit sore tonight, but it feels good. We are looking forward to tomorrows walk; it is a short day, only 15k (about 9.5 mi).

Killer Day. Today's Camino from Castrojeriz to Formista is listed as 25.2k (15.7 mi), after a detour to the bank and to the Camino, we logged 17 miles.

Buen Camino

 

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